crampons.net

Crampons.net is reader-supported. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases made through links on this site, at no extra cost to you. How this works.

12-point steel · head-to-head

Petzl Vasak vs Grivel G12

These are the two default general mountaineering crampons, and they are far more alike than the brand loyalty around them suggests. Both are 12-point steel, both have horizontal front points, both ship with anti-balling plates, both come in strap, semi-automatic and automatic versions, and either one will get you up a glacier route without complaint.

The one real difference is how the steel is made and what that costs you. Grivel hot-forges the G12: the frame is hammered into shape while hot, which packs the grain of the metal and produces points that resist blunting and bending better than pressed steel. Petzl builds the Vasak lighter and more precisely, with better plastics, better plates and cleaner adjustment. You are choosing between a tool that shrugs off abuse and a tool that is nicer to live with.

Petzl Vasak vs Grivel G12 at a glance
SpecPetzl VasakGrivel G12
Points12, horizontal front points12, horizontal front points
Weight (pair)~880 g~980 g
SteelPressed steel, chromolyHot-forged
Anti-ballingANTISNOW plates, front and rearAntibott plates, front and rear
Binding namesFlexlock (strap), Leverlock Universel (semi/auto)New-Classic (strap), New-Matic (semi), Cramp-O-Matic (auto)
Boot ratingB1–B3 depending on versionB1–B3 depending on version
AdjustmentTool-free linking bar, long bar availableTool-free linking bar, long bar available
CharacterRefined all-rounderDurable classic

Front-point bite and walking comfort

On the ground where these crampons live — 20° to 50° snow, névé, glacier ice, the occasional short bulge — neither has a meaningful advantage in grip. Both plant ten downward points under the ball, arch and heel and both kick a supportive step with the front pair.

The differences are in feel. The Vasak's front points angle forward and slightly down, so the transition from flat-footing to a few front-point kicks happens without a big change of stance, and the points are less prone to snagging a gaiter or a soft shell cuff. The G12's geometry is a touch more aggressive at the front and the frame is stiffer, which suits kicking into hard névé and firm alpine ice; the trade is that on long flat approaches it feels slightly more like standing on a plate and less like standing on a foot.

Neither is an ice climbing crampon. Both handle short steps in balance to roughly 60°; beyond that, or for anything sustained, you want the T-section or vertical front points of a dedicated ice crampon, and both of these will make you work.

Neither crampon makes steep snow safe. Above about 30°, a slip becomes a slide, and stopping one takes an ice axe, practised self-arrest and an honest read of what is below you. Get instruction before you rely on either.

Durability: where the G12 wins

Hot forging is not marketing. A forged point holds its edge longer on rock and deforms less when you catch it on a boulder mid-step, which is exactly what happens on approach paths, rocky ridges and the mixed ground between snow patches. Alpine courses and rental fleets put the G12 on students' feet for that reason: it survives people who are still learning where their feet are.

The Vasak's steel is entirely adequate and it has a compensating virtue — it files quickly. Ten minutes with a hand file restores a working edge, where forged points take longer to bring back. So the real comparison is not "durable versus fragile" but "wears slower versus sharpens faster". If your season includes long rocky approaches or you climb a lot of mixed ground, the G12 stays sharp through more of it. If you are diligent with a file, the gap narrows to something you will struggle to notice.

Both frames outlive their consumables. On either crampon, the parts that need replacing first are straps, anti-balling plates and the toe cradle or bail — all available as spares, which is the practical argument for buying either of these over an unbranded copy. Brand-wide spare-part logic is laid out in the Petzl and Grivel lineup guides.

Anti-balling and snow shedding

Wet snow packing into a solid ball under the crampon is the most common cause of unexpected slips on warm afternoons, and it is worth caring about more than point shape. Both models ship with plates fitted front and rear, and both work.

Petzl's ANTISNOW plates are the better of the two in our experience — softer, better shaped around the point roots, and quicker to release a load of spring slush with a tap of the axe shaft. Grivel's Antibott plates are effective but need a more determined knock in claggy snow. The margin is small, but it favours the Vasak on exactly the sort of warm, soft, late-season day where balling matters most. Why balling happens and how to clear it on the move: anti-balling plates explained.

Bindings, boot fit and price positioning

Both makers cover every boot type, but they package it differently, and this is where a purchase can go wrong.

Petzl sells the Vasak as Flexlock (strap-on, for stiff boots with no welts) or Leverlock Universel, whose toe ships able to run either a strap cradle or a wire bail. One Leverlock purchase therefore covers C2 and C3 fitting — useful if you own a B2 boot now and expect a B3 shell later.

Grivel splits the same ground three ways: New-Classic straps, New-Matic semi-automatic with a toe strap cradle, Cramp-O-Matic fully automatic with a toe bail. Buy the one that matches the welts you have; there is no universal version. Decode all of these in binding types explained.

On price, the G12 is usually the cheaper of the two, sometimes by a wide margin depending on version and stock. That makes it the better value on a pure durability-per-unit-of-money basis. The Vasak asks a premium for ~100 g less weight, better plates and neater hardware, and for most buyers that premium is defensible rather than obvious.

The verdict

Buy the Petzl Vasak if:

  • You want one pair of crampons for glaciers, snow routes, ridges and occasional ice, and you value how gear feels day to day.
  • Your boots have a heel welt and you might change boot type later — Leverlock Universel covers C2 and C3 in one purchase.
  • Wet spring snow is a regular feature of your season and you want the better anti-balling plates.
  • You count grams on long days. ~100 g on your feet is worth more than ~100 g in the pack.

Buy the Grivel G12 if:

  • You want maximum toughness per unit of money, and you would rather spend the difference on a course than on hardware.
  • Your routes involve rocky approaches, mixed ground or scree where points take a beating.
  • You are buying for a club, a course or a beginner who will not be gentle.
  • You already own boots with a specific welt configuration and can buy the matching binding version outright.

If we had to hand one pair to a reader we knew nothing about, it would be the Vasak — it is the pick in our mountaineering crampon roundup for the same reasons. But nobody who buys the G12 gets less crampon than they need. Read the full Petzl Vasak review and Grivel G12 review for the long-term detail on each.

And if neither is right: if your winter is packed trail, frozen paths and the odd icy traverse in flexible boots, a 12-point crampon is the wrong tool and a slightly dangerous one — points catch, soft soles flex, straps loosen. Use microspikes instead. Crampons start where a slip would run.

Petzl Vasak on Amazon Grivel G12 on Amazon

Check which binding version a listing is for before ordering. Flexlock, Leverlock, New-Classic, New-Matic and Cramp-O-Matic all look similar at thumbnail size and are sold as separate products.

FAQ

Is the G12 really more durable, or is that just reputation?

It is real, but it applies to point wear and deformation on rock rather than to frame failure. Neither frame is likely to break in normal use. If you walk a lot of rocky ground, forged points stay usable longer between filings.

Which is better for a first pair of crampons?

Either. The G12 costs less and tolerates learner footwork; the Vasak is lighter and easier to adjust. Getting the binding version right for your boots matters far more than the badge, so identify your welts before you choose a model.

Can I use either for ice climbing?

For short steps up to around 60°, yes. For sustained steep or vertical ice, both make you work much harder than a crampon with T-section or vertical front points.

Do the anti-balling plates need replacing?

Eventually, on both. Treat cracked or worn plates as a safety issue rather than cosmetic damage, and replace them — Petzl and Grivel both sell plates separately for these models.